Tuesday, January 31, 2012

New Year, New Projects


Each morning a little light seeping through the wooden slats of the windows, the rustling of people outside my doors, such a slight separation between my space and the rest of the world.  Bare feet on the cracked cement floor, already a light layer of dust since yesterday’s sweeping, I stand in the middle of the front room for a moment before opening my house, letting in the light and the day.  What I want is the air, the reality of life outside, but this is also an invitation to enter – an open door means men pausing in the doorway, children coming in uninvited, people passing by and yelling out my name, often gone before I can even see who called.

I am glad for the visits when I know and like my visitors; I am glad to be a part of the community.  Some just gaze at my pictures on the fridge and ask about my life, curious about my friends and family.  Some are too bold, looking through my things on the table, asking to borrow or keep things: peanut butter, lip-gloss, my camera…  I tell them they’re being rude:  “Pero tu entras en casa ajena y pidas cosas asi?!”  But you just come into someone else’s house and ask for things like that?!   They laugh, sometimes bashful, often not.  I like that I’ve reached a point of comfort here to tell it like it is, without worrying about offending someone.  They aren’t offended.  It’s all about delivery.  And the best way to keep my sanity with all the crazy situations I end up in is to be as bold as everyone else…

At night, men sit outside Neno’s colmado across the street from my house, slow Mexican music falling and rising from a truck’s speakers.  If I leave the door open, I have more visitors.  The activity multiplies, motorcycles roaring past, kids running and yelling, the men raising their voices over a card game or dominos.  They used to really annoy me out there, talking about politics, women, the tobacco crop, whatever, and watching when I leave my house, when I come back, when someone else visits me.  Sometimes it still drives me a little crazy, the feeling of being watched, but now that I’m friendly with everyone and they’ve become familiar neighbors, it usually just makes me feel safe.  All that activity on my street, people always sitting there, a light bulb always on (whether or not we have electricity, because the colmado has a generator)… It’s like having my own personal watchmen.  Things work out well. 

Returning to Tabara after three weeks away was actually quite nice.  I was greeted like a long lost relative: hug attacks from friends, everyone on the street telling me how they’d missed me, asking how my family is doing in the United States, updating me on the gossip… I got right back into the swing of things, and now that the adult literacy program has ended, I’m free to start other projects.  So far I’ve started a girl’s empowerment youth group and am getting things organized to begin a reading program for elementary school kids outside of school.  I’m still working with some of the adults too, just not running all over the community like a crazy person trying to get 100 people to learn to read.  Also, Tabara Arriba got a new priest in November who is ready to get to work on development projects, and is supportive of my education work.  The last priest was supposed to be my project partner… that didn’t work out, as he didn’t seem to care to do any work or support me at all.  So this is an exciting new development.  I have no religious agenda, but if the church is the only community organization doing anything for the community, more power to them!

I’m feeling good about 2012. 

Thursday, January 5, 2012

FESTIVITIES: Weddings, Funerals, Going-Away Parties, and Bachata Concerts!


First of all, I am writing this from THE UNITED STATES: a glorious place full of family, friends, working bathrooms (and lots of other things that work as they are supposed to), coldness, cars, and a lot of excess food and things in general.  I’m home for Christmas and New Years! 


Obviously it's really wonderful to see my American friends and family (and plan their visits to the Dominican Republic...), but it's gone by very quickly. I'll be back to my community soon!  

The last weeks before I came home were pleasantly busy, between finishing out the literacy program and going to a lot of shindigs…  December in the DR is not really a productive time for work.  Weekends become more festive; relatives who live and work in the capital or in the eastern tourist towns come home; people put lights on their houses and break out the rum early in the day… I wouldn’t say it feels like Christmas (at least not to me), but the air is cooler and people are in good spirits.

Some events:
*  My friend got married, which is almost unheard of in the campo.  Weddings cost money, and people just generally don’t have them.  When it comes time for communion in church, most of the takers are children.  The wedding was sweet, and the party was really fun.  Lots of dancing, food, the usual.  


*  There were a lot of funerals too… I don’t know what it is about December.  Funerals here are nine days long, involve tons of people, coffee, and sitting around and playing dominos and hanging out, while inside the house of the deceased the closest family members receive well-wishers and mourn their loved one.  At this point, the only major life event that I haven’t participated in is a birth.  Though I did meet my friend’s newborn baby a week after she was born…

*  My yoga/pilates class (yes, I teach a yoga/pilates class... they love it) planned a going-away spaghetti party for one of our members, who’s leaving Tabara to join the rest of her family in Spain and find work.  (And also for me, because right now I am here instead of there!)  So we made a giant thing of cheesy spaghetti and then sat on the street and ate our spaghetti… Good times.


 

*  A famous Dominican bachatero, Zacarias Ferreira, came to my town to give a concert.  Apparently he’s friends with some people here, and has come before… I guess it’s not that crazy, considering how small the Dominican Republic is, that one of the most famous singers in the country would come here to my campo to sing.  So that was even more dancing… if there’s one thing that Tabareros are united in, it’s their love of a party.  Can we raise money for schoolbooks? Do kids even receive class in school? Negative.  But we can raise thousands (millions?) of pesos for a party.  Priorities. 

Nikki and I at the concert...

So what comes next?  More literacy and youth programs!  I'll keep you posted...