Monday, December 24, 2012

Opportunities


"Experience, travel - these are an education in themselves."  - Euripides

A few weeks ago I took two of my girls to the Brigada Verde (Green Brigade) Southern Conference.  The conference is organized by environment volunteers and focuses on environmental issues and appreciating the world around us.  We went to see some awesome local caves, stargazed, sang around a campfire, and talked about how things are falling apart and what we can do in our communities to educate and mobilize people.  I think this has been my favorite youth conference yet – this group of Dominican teenagers was just awesome.  Very mature, very interested and interesting.  I was so proud of my girls – two 15-year old neighbors who have participated in a lot of my activities in Tabara, and who have also simply been friends during my time here.  It is an amazing feeling to watch another person live up to the potential that you see in them, to be able to give them an opportunity that they would never get otherwise.  These girls would never be able to leave their community for a weekend, meet kids and other American volunteers who live around the country, see new places, talk about new ideas…  open their minds with new experiences!

I’ve traveled a lot.  I’m still missing some regions, but between visitors from America, Peace Corps adventures, conferences, and just visiting friends who live around the country, I’ve seen a good portion of the Dominican Republic.  I’m probably the only person in my community who has.  A lot of kids have never been any farther than Azua (the pueblo 20 minutes away from Tabara).  Most people have been to the Capital at some point, but Santo Domingo is not exactly a beautiful experience.  To live on such an amazing island, with mountains, rivers, lakes, beaches upon beaches upon beaches, desert, forest, and every other ecosystem, and never be able to see any of it… That’s the situation for a lot of Dominicans.  Many have never been to the beach, and there’s one half an hour away from my town.  No one I know can swim.    

Meanwhile, Dad, Dan, and Cari came to visit two months ago and we saw three extremely diverse parts of the country in the space of a week!  We spent a few nights in the Colonial Zone in the Capital, they came to Tabara for a night, and we traveled up to Samana, the awesome peninsula in the northeastern part of the island.   It was a great trip.  I have an amazing time hosting my family and friends from America and being a tour guide to this country, but I wish I could do the same for Dominicans – bring them to America and show them my country, take them to my mom’s house for dinner (my host mom, Victoria, has fed each and every one of my visitors), take them to the beach, to the city… the way I bring Americans here and show them my town, the city, the beach.  This exchange does more good than I even realize at the time.  People here will be talking about all the Americans they’ve met through me, maybe forever.  No one has been forgotten yet anyway.  And the more they interact with each other, the more each side understands the other…

I’m not sure what direction my life will take in five months, when I finish my service as a Peace Corps Volunteer (!), but I know that I love the feeling of providing opportunities for other people, and watching them live up to my expectations.  They usually do.

Dan chillin' in my hammock

Dad and Cari following my host dad through his tabacco field

On the way to Samana

Me and my girls, Lisandra and Estefi, in our cabin at the Brigada Verde conference

Saturday, November 10, 2012

Medical Mission

I am often reminded just how lucky it is to be born American.  One obvious perk is my passport to the world – I can go where I want when I want, legally at least.  What did I do to earn that?  Sure, most of my Dominican friends would love to move to the United States and stay there to work and send money back to their families – the American Dream.   But many would just like to visit.  They want to live in the world as I do, free to come and go.  What privilege I have, to be American. 

Another perk is health care.  I don’t mean insurance, but just quality of care.  Whether it’s preventative or emergency, you can generally trust that your doctors completed some rigorous schooling in order to be in their position.  And though it is nowhere near equal for all Americans, when you walk into a hospital in the United States, it generally has electricity, clean water, medical supplies, sanitary practices, and well-educated doctors – these are some certainties that we shouldn’t take for granted.

I’ve heard some pretty questionable medical advice from doctors here… In fact, I’m not allowed to go to the hospitals in this country.  There’s one “approved” hospital in Santo Domingo where volunteers are taken in case of emergency, but even then, our Peace Corps doctors get us out of there as quickly as possible.  My neighbor’s 15 year-old wife recently lost a baby in the Azua hospital, and he said to me, “La gente van al hospital para morir.”  People go to the hospital to die.  Here, I believe it.  Last year I visited my host mom’s sister as she lay suffering from hepatitis B in that same hospital.  They don’t have resources or supplies.  Patients have to bring their own sheets and mosquito nets.  Families bring food to their loved ones.  I assume the hospital provides some food, but not enough.  Kind of like prisons… if you’re in prison in this country and no one brings you food, you’re at least half starving.  But despite these things, I’m sure the Dominican Republic is still a lot better off than many other developing countries in terms of access to medical services.

A few weeks ago I participated in my first medical mission, interpreting for American doctors who come to the island for a week to provide free service to Dominican patients.  The Peace Corps has ongoing relationships with a lot of returning missions, sending volunteers to make communication possible between doctors and patients.  This particular mission was a gynecological surgery mission with the leading surgeons from Mount Sinai Hospital in New York… I learned a lot, to say the least.  They came to provide surgeries for common issues that affect women, especially those who are married very young, have many pregnancies, and receive infrequent medical care, if they ever see a doctor at all.  I spent a lot of time chatting with doñas about their sex lives and birthing experiences, some of which were pretty horrifying.  

I also learned a lot about anesthesia, and when my role as translator wasn’t really necessary anymore (mostly once the anesthesia set in), I observed several surgeries and even scrubbed-in to assist!  Turns out that I’m not squeamish, although the surgeries did make me sort of terrified to be a woman for the first time in my life.  The fact that I’ve never been scared to be a woman in this world also reflects how lucky I am to be American… I’m currently reading a book called Half the Sky, about the plight of women worldwide.  I recommend it.  (http://www.halftheskymovement.org/)



Dory and I waiting to translate for consultations

Scrubbed-in and assisting on surgery!



Monday, September 24, 2012

We Need Your Help!


Well, in a year and a half I haven’t had to do this yet, but now is the time…  Please support my reading program! 

Several volunteer friends and I have collaborated to share a Peace Corps Partnership grant for materials and group trainings for the work that we do individually in our communities, helping children who are severely behind in an already lagging school system.  Between five Peace Corps volunteers, we are working in five different rural communities with 20 local facilitators and over 300 children benefitting from our work.  We need funding!


The goal is to make our programs sustainable, so that our local counterparts will continue this work long after we leave.  We need materials and trainings to make this possible.  Your donation will contribute to a sustainable future for a program that helps the children who need it the most:  children whose parents may be illiterate, who are at risk of dropping out of school in favor of work, who have often already been given up on, and therefore have given up on themselves. 

Last year, our results showed a significant improvement in the reading levels of participants.  Teachers in my school have said that everyone loves what I am doing, that “the light bulb has turned on” for a lot of the children participating in our program.   Finally feeling purposeful in my work is obviously gratifying, but it is not the ultimate goal.  The ultimate goal is to keep this going, to begin a slow change that will continue after I leave.  100% of your donation will go towards materials, trainings, and facilitator support.  (Peace Corps volunteers don’t really have overhead costs…)

To see pictures and learn more about what we are doing, visit our facebook page (the pictures in “Yo Se Leer: Tabara Arriba” are a sample from my school!): http://www.facebook.com/YoSeLeer 


Sunday, September 23, 2012

25


I have now been on the Earth for a quarter of a century.  I’ve been lucky enough to see some cool places and meet some amazing people and hopefully affect some lives in a positive way.   These days, well into year two of my Peace Corps service, I feel almost complete freedom where I used to feel trapped.  I am known; I am safe and loved in my community.  I can come and go as I please.  I have fun times all over this island with both American and Dominican friends.  I feel like my work is actually becoming effective (which is a question in the mind of every volunteer: “Is any of this helping anyone?”).  I am enjoying this life, and that really is the most important thing.  It flies by!

The month of September is full of festivities.  I celebrated my birthday with Peace Corps friends, dancing in the capital and then enjoying a day at the beach.   Now it’s patronales in Tabara Arriba – the 10-day festival for our patron saint.  All communities in the Dominican Republic (and most Spanish-influenced countries?) celebrate patronales.  So, from last Friday until next Sunday, we are in fiesta here.  There are rides in the park, a stage for concerts, lots of alcohol, dancing, and general merriment.  Last night I went on the Ferris wheel and immediately realized that it wasn’t a great idea… not exactly inspection-approved machinery, though clearly I survived to tell the tale.  The Merry-Go-Round has a plaque that says, “Made in Kansas, 1948.”  I assume the Ferris wheel has similar origins.  So if you ever wondered what happens to antique amusement park rides when America doesn’t want them anymore, now you know.  Apparently the last time they brought rides to patronales here was four years ago, and my friend Yara fell out of her Ferris wheel seat and was hanging on for dear life until someone saved her.  And another woman fell out of the flying swing ride.  Doesn’t exactly inspire confidence…

While all this is a definite distraction from the school, we started our reading program last week and so far it’s going really well.  I finally have the enthusiasm of teachers, students and facilitators to keep me motivated.  It took a while to make that happen, but that’s why we’re here for two years.  I’ve gotten more of my friends involved, and now have six Dominican facilitators working with me!  So we can give 45-minute sessions of small group attention to around 90 kids every day in the third and fourth grades.  Everyone is feeling good about our work so far, though school attendance will likely suffer during this week of festival…


Friday, August 24, 2012

Photo Update

Family visit:  Mom, Steve, and Dominican friends and family!

Camp GLOW with my chicas!

My house
The view from my front door when it rains...

Thursday, August 23, 2012

Flow


Two years is a long time.  A lot changes over just one year – relationships develop, people move, projects begin and end.  And then again, it feels like no time has passed at all and the remainder will be gone in a second.  Despite the eternal summer of the Caribbean, life still moves in cycles here.  It’s finally raining again, and the whole rhythm of the day changes with rain.  It’s quieter, more relaxed, nice to just sit somewhere with a rainy breeze after the unbearable heat of June and July.  We’ve left mango season and entered avocado season (even better!), and the coming months will bring slightly cooler weather and lots of coffee.  People will disappear to their mountains for weeks at a time to harvest, and the streets will fill with a layer of drying coffee beans, the smell of their damp decay through the air.  

When we first arrive, everything feels fragile.  It takes time to build a support system and develop friendships, to get comfortable with how to live in a very different place.  But, like anything, this life becomes normal.  By the time I leave Tabara, I’ll have lived in this little blue cement house longer than I’ve lived anywhere but the house where I grew up in Pennsylvania.  That’s a weird thought – the home I’m used to now is a place where roosters wake me up at any hour of the day and I find a little blood on my orange tree from the neighbors’ cock fights; where people and animals wander into my house; where I wait for electricity and water to arrive when I need them, but am mostly prepared not to have them…  I recently got a fridge after being without for almost half of the last year.  Cold water is really nice, especially in July.  Leftovers are also nice. 

Anyway.  I’m ready for school to start again!  A few weeks ago I took some girls to Camp GLOW.  They loved it, as to be expected.  Right now I’m holding reading camp in the mornings for some of the kids who are really struggling to learn.  We supposedly start in the library at 8:30 AM, but they show up at my house to peek their little faces through the windows at 7:45 wondering why I’m taking so long… I can’t really get mad at their enthusiasm.  It’s kind of adorable, and we usually end up starting early. 

Lately, by the time I finish with the kids and come home, the sky opens up into a torrential downpour and everyone stays wherever they are for a while.  Good thing I’m not trying to do anything in the evenings like last year – those adult literacy classes were cancelled half of the time.  The kids run around mostly naked in the rain, stopping to drip in my doorway and hand me limoncillos, or whatever other fruit they’ve been out collecting.  They’re good little messengers, running through the flooded streets to pass me a cup of coffee from my neighbors, bringing them a piece of my banana bread.  Older boys race on motorcycles, lifting into wheelies on the slick streets… No one else seems concerned, but I still cringe a little, waiting for a wipeout.

Life continues!

Wednesday, July 25, 2012

Summer!


Well, my neighbors have gotten used to meeting new Americans at this point.  The first few were a novelty, but now they just ask me who’s coming next, where’s my dad, what about that other brother I’ve mentioned?  Is he single?  Can some muchacha mangar her visa?  In the last few months I’ve had 10 different visitors, between other Peace Corps volunteers and visitors from home!  Tabara loves them all.

They especially loved meeting my mom and brother, Steve.  Mom came once before, in October, and it’s interesting to see how my place in the community has evolved since then.   The difference between six months and a year is huge in terms of relationships and comfort.  We hiked to the loma with some of my Dominican family and friends, involving a mule for transport, live chickens (to be killed and cooked upon arrival), mangos falling off the trees and onto our heads in gusts of wind, and the long process of making a huge sancocho over a fire.  We spent some time sitting in the river, and the chicas were pretty excited to teach Steve to dance bachata and take a lot of pictures with him.  They were shocked to learn that he’s only 15:  “Pero Laura… él es un gigante!”  But Laura… he’s a giant!  They all fell in love.  (Pictures to come, at some point.)
  
Mom and Steve were pretty amused by the cast of characters around my house too… Lets just say that my family has now witnessed some of the weirdness of my life, including an enamorado soaping up half-naked in my doorway to go bathe in the rain, and another serenading them on my guitar (which he doesn’t know how to play) with a song he wrote himself… Awkward.  Really.  I think mom got it on video.  I also watched my mother show baby pictures of me to some muchacho I barely know just cause he came over and parked himself in my yard like everyone likes to do… Mostly I was just like, “What is going on here?”  It was an entertaining week.  And, as always, the children can be counted on.  I think mom and Steve each had their own fan clubs of small children.  Adorable.

A few friends came to visit from home too!  First came Liz, who everyone thought was my sister and said was so beautiful.  Then Natalie… who everyone thought was my sister and said was so beautiful (though we had already established that I have no sisters when Liz was here).  This merging of worlds has been pretty great actually.  It’s fun to be the ambassador between Americans and Dominicans, though interpreting is exhausting. 

Me and Natalie at the beach!

Besides acting as a guide to this crazy country for some of my loved ones, the month of June wasn’t all that productive in terms of work, since school’s out.  But I did manage to paint a huge mural of a world map in the school!  Some of my buddies helped me with the painting part, and we’re all quite proud of ourselves... It looks pretty cool. 

The world in our school!

The remainder of the summer will be dedicated to camps, inside and outside of my community.   It’s good to keep busy – with this crazy heat it’s a little too tempting to not move from my house between the hours of 10 AM and 4 PM.   Next week I’m taking two of my chicas to camp GLOW (a five-day overnight camp for girls).  Then it’s back to literacy.  I’m planning a reading camp for kids for the month of August, and after that school starts again! …Eventually… when both the teachers and the kids feel like going...

Thursday, May 24, 2012

Mango Season


Rocks crash against the zinc roof, one after the other, followed by children’s shouts, and then an older voice, “Pero, deja eso!”  (But, leave that be!).   No matter how much we all yell at the kids, they won’t listen for long.   The rocks keep coming – an attempt to knock mangos out of the big tree in my yard.   It’s easier when a muchacho just climbs the tree and shakes the branches, or knocks at them with a stick – one, two, three shakes and small mangos rain down like candy from a piñata.  They all come running, looking for the ripe yellow ones, but settling for hard green mangos too.  Lacking such a muchacho, kids never seem to tire of throwing rocks, small sticks, other mangos they found rotting on the ground – all a weak attempt to walk away with arms full of fruit.  They leave my yard a mess of fallen leaves, branches, rocks, trash, mango carcasses…  I’ve learned to tolerate it and sweep up once a week. 

My price for this invasion is mangos.  I do none of the work – they deliver mangos to my kitchen table, ripe, green, doesn’t matter.  We eat the ripe ones like candy, ripping them open with our teeth and spitting out the peels, biting satisfying chunks of mango flesh from around the large seed.  The green ones we cut into slices and eat with salt and vinegar, passing the bowl around until everyone’s fingers are sour and delicious.  I’ve made mango bread, mango salsa, mango spritzers… the tree is still full of mangos, so I predict I’ve got about another month or two for more inventions. 

I lay in my purple hammock, strung between the mango tree and the sweet orange tree, and wince every time a random fruit falls, crashing through the leaves and against the roof.  I haven’t been hit in the head with a mango yet, but it’s likely only a matter of time.  And I’ve become shameless about asking for help.  My neighbor climbs the mango tree and next I want him to climb the impossibly tall coco tree too:  Hey, I’m pretty enough for you to risk your life so I can eat some coconut, aren’t I?   Yes.  He struggles up the branchless palm tree, clutching with arms and legs like a monkey, and throws down coconuts, which I will then ask him to break open with a machete.  It’s really a process to get to the meat of a coconut, but thankfully everyone’s a la orden.  (At your service!)  I’ll really miss that about this country.  That and the fruit.  My fridge it stocked.

Friday, May 4, 2012

Reflections


I’ve never really believed in magic – things like premonitions, the evil eye, reading tealeaves.  I guess I’ve always been unsure, but my neighbor recently “read my cards,” and the things that came up were shockingly true.  I can’t speak for what she predicted just yet, but the characters and the situations involved were all completely accurate... I’m reassessing my thoughts on tarot cards.  Actually, I’ve had her do it twice already.  I was feeling a little lost last week.  Now she tells me she’s going to read the dregs at the bottom of my coffee cup because that’s more accurate… we’ll see. 

Dad – among many other things, it was predicted that a man outside of this country wants to come see me, and that a boy is preparing papers and medical things to come see me now (Steve!).   So get on that!  Didn’t say anything about a woman, sorry mom, maybe you were implied.  I also apparently have money coming my way… not sure about that one, but it sounds nice.

In other news, I arrived in Tabara Arriba, Azua a year ago!  One year in this town – long enough for a lot of the community to become like family.  I’ve got Dominican “parents,” sisters, a niece (and another on the way!), cousins, friends, confidants, co-workers, students, neighbors… Despite the sometimes desperate need to get out of town, I am already sad at the prospect of leaving a year from now.  I know I’ll never really be able to come back – visiting isn’t the same thing.  You really can’t enter back into an old life once you leave it.  This is the hard part of throwing yourself entirely into whatever world you are living in – you make relationships and grow to really love people, but it isn’t your real world, and you could never stay (and you wouldn’t seriously want to).  Bittersweet.  Well, anyway, I’ve still got a year of frustrations and dramas and things to drive me crazy.  Maybe I’ll be saying “Hasta la vista!” with gusto as I ride out of town on a motorcycle a year from now… 

So, how have I changed over the last year?  It’s not that the changes are so drastic, or that I ever would have noticed them as they were happening.  I’ve just become sort of Dominican… I think I’m a little too integrated:

  •       I send children to do things for me (ie. “Get me an egg from the colmado”; “Go knock some mangos out of the tree”; “Help me sweep my yard”; “Give so-and-so this message”).  It’s really quite convenient.
  •       I automatically offer people some of whatever I’m eating or drinking, and have no problem sharing plates, utensils, glasses, etc.
  •       I usually bathe twice a day… sometimes three times, if it’s hot enough.
  •       My definition of “bathroom” is pretty flexible.
  •       I am capable of sitting in a plastic chair by the side of the road for extended periods of time, as long as I’ve got company.  My definition of “company” is also pretty flexible.  (Four year-olds count.)
  •       Instead going over to talk to someone, I might just yell to them down the street… or even better, call them over by making a snatching movement in the air with my hand. 
  •       If it’s raining, I feel no obligation to leave my house.  No one else will.  (ie.  Hardly anyone goes to school when it’s raining, or drizzling, or just kind of looks cloudy… which makes for a super productive educational system during the rainy season.)
  •       I am not surprised or alarmed when people enter my house uninvited.   I also enter other people’s homes a lot…
  •       I know that if I wait around long enough, someone will bring me a gift of fruit.
  •       I don’t really worry about too much, in terms of work at least.  If things work out, they do.  If they don’t, oh well, we tried.   This also means that I kind of expect everything to fail, which probably isn’t a good thing.
  •       I am patient, and I expect everyone to be late.  Always.  (Despite this, I still can’t shake my American habit of being on time.)
  •       I’ve probably become a little too accustomed to being worshipped…

Last week I had the very cool experience of meeting the last volunteer who lived in Tabara Arriba.  She lived here ten years ago, her name is also Laura, and she married someone from Tabara.  So, you can imagine that since my arrival I’ve been hearing, “Pero la otra Laura se casó aquí!  Tu tienes que casarte con un Dominicano!”  But the other Laura got married here!  You need to marry a Dominican!   You know… the usual.  But it was really interesting to talk to someone who has basically lived my life before me, who experienced Tabara Arriba in the same way, just ten years ago.  She said not much has really changed, except that we now have paved roads and a library, and a lot of the people she was close to have moved to the capital, or Spain, or have died…

So good to know, when I come back ten years from now, Tabara will still be here... probably not much different than it is now. 

Friday, April 27, 2012

Enamorados


Updates.  Work is pretty much what I described in my last post:  trying to help 8 to 13 year olds learn to read.  The school is horrendous, but people are generally very nice.  I could say that about a lot of things.  Politics make no sense and nothing functions, but people are unbelievably friendly.  So it goes.  I’m also working with girls groups on Saturdays – we just finished a few weeks of talking about sexual health and are moving on to nutrition this Saturday.  It’s actually fun – I’ve always liked working with youth.  And after spending the week playing games and repeating the letters and syllables with slow learners inside a barely functioning school, it’s refreshing to teach about something else for a few hours. 

Other than that, the story of my life is kind of going through a dramatic phase.  If you know me, you know that I hate drama.  Some people feed off of it, but it just stresses me out.  A friend once told me that if she had to describe me in only one word, it would be “pragmatic.”  I’m not sure I entirely agree with that either, but it’s definitely closer to the truth.  Just, you know, be real.

So, this drama.  It’s been coming for a while now, I guess.  I think Dominicans watch way too many telenovelas (when there’s electricity), and it contributes to their love of all things dramatic.  I am a 24 year-old American woman living alone in a rural town where girls usually get knocked up and shacked up with older men around age 16.  So… right off the bat, it’s kind of a weird position to be in.  Ask any female Peace Corps volunteer.  Add to that the fact that my house is across from one of the busiest colmados in town and my door is generally open if I’m inside (otherwise I’m sitting alone in a hot blue box), meaning I receive plenty of visitors, wanted and unwanted.  Meanwhile, lots of people sit across the street in plastic chairs for lack of anything better to do, and at this point it’s probably more entertaining to watch my house than it is to watch telenovelas anyway. 

What’s the Americana doing?!  Baking bread?  Playing with children?  Reading a book?  Playing guitar?  Receiving gentlemen callers?  Scintillating stuff.  But regarding that last one, there’s where the drama comes in, obviously.  Since day one, there have been some constants in my life here, a few things I can count on.  One is my host family and extended family, who just treat me like real family.  Another is the generally frustrating nature of work.  I do what I can.  But the overwhelming constant, the leaves-me-laughing-out-loud, can’t-believe-how-ridiculous-people-can-be, is-this-really-still-happening constant thing, is enamorados.  This level of persistence is just ridiculous.  I’ve lived in this house for eight months, and in Tabara Arriba for just about a year (!), and some of these men/boys are the same ones who have been bugging me since my arrival.  Seriously?  No, I don’t think I will marry you and bring you with me to my country.  Today, one of my ten-year old students passed me on a motorcycle as I walked home and blew me kisses, mouthing the words “I love you” in English.  Seriously.  One time a particularly persistent enamorado was attempting to chat me up on the side of the road and an old lady passed by, whacked him in the head with the back of her hand, and said, “No te enamores.”  Don’t fall in love.  Hilarious.  Every day there are at least a few encounters like these.  They aren’t men if they don’t try, apparently…

Well, all that is regarding the general crowd, most of whom I kick out the second they show up at my door.  Then there are the more specific few, the ones who slowly became real friends after months of visiting me, and these are the ones who are now turning my life into a drama.  Who will be sitting in Laura’s rocking chair tonight?  It’s anyone’s guess.  To me, we are sitting here and chatting.  Friends do that, and it beats sitting alone.  To them… well who knows.  I am being seriously courted, though they all have secret girlfriends anyway.  Call them on it and they’ll say, “No importa!  Puedo estar contigo también!” It doesn’t matter, I can be with you too!  Though one did offer to leave his pregnant 16 year-old girlfriend for me… Awesome.  Yeah, I’ll give that some serious consideration, thanks.  It’s really a shame – it’s nice to have company over the age of ten.  I like my “friends,” but I might have to start keeping my door closed and going elsewhere for my evening entertainment.    

Thursday, March 29, 2012

Todos Leen


My little neighbor Bibi is eight years old, her sister, Ruistel, is ten.  Both are in the third grade, but neither can read the vowels or count to 100.  They are confused between “a” and “e,” and get tripped up after 30.  Both girls are perfectly normal Dominican kids.  I can see that they are both intelligent, both sweet.  They visit me and ask me to read them stories, then give me hugs and bring me gifts of bananas and lollipops as thanks.  I often have to kick them out of my house at night (along with other neighbors), or they’d probably try to sleep on my cement floor.   “Laura tiene muchos niños,” my muchacho neighbors say.  Laura has a lot of children.  They come to my house just like everyone else does, but they stay a lot longer, sitting on my floor and coloring or flipping through books they can’t read.  I let them stay as long as they don’t annoy me, and I read to them when I have nothing better to do.  For this they love me.  I “have a lot of children” because no one else ever read them a bedtime story before.  I mean, I also like kids most of the time.  They’re pretty funny, and bring me gifts, and can usually be counted on to help me sweep the leaves and trash in my yard.  Then again, they threw the trash there in the first place…  

So how did they reach the third grade without learning much at all?  Unfortunately, this is pretty typical here.  I wrote a little about the school system a long time ago, when I was still in training, but seeing the realities daily in Tabara is a different story.   The school day is about three hours long, but most of that time is spent disciplining, trying to get the students to stay in the classroom, and then having them copy something off the board.  Classroom management and varied instruction are not part of the program.  Students who have no help at home don’t stand a chance, and this applies to most students.  Bibi and Ruistel’s mother is a very sweet woman, who is also illiterate (she was originally a student of the adult literacy program, but gave up early on), so I would count them among the students who don’t have much of a chance.  Someone told me that Tabara has school about 90 days a year…for about 3 hours a day…which amounts to maybe 1 hour of work time a day.  If school is cancelled for something legitimate on a Wednesday, no one will go Thursday or Friday either.  Just because.

My new project involves invading the school and working with third graders.  Let’s call it “reading intervention.”  Last September, when I was still working on adult literacy in the evenings, I began visiting the school to see what kind of work I could do there with the teachers.  I quickly became discouraged by the craziness of the school, the frequency of strikes and cancellations, and the apparent apathy of most teachers.  When adult literacy (happily) ended in December, I revisited the idea of working in the school, and realized the best thing to do was to walk in and tell them what I was going to do.  The principal and teachers are pretty welcoming actually, but when I ask for their opinions we get nowhere.  They recognize that help is needed, at the very least, and they seem to like me.  

So I’ve enlisted the help of three of my adult literacy facilitators and friends, Awanda, Adalgiza and Toquia, to pull out small groups of third graders and work with them in forty-five minute sessions on reading.  Basically, an in-school tutoring program.  Between the four of us, we are working with over half of the third graders – forty-two kids who barely know their letters, and could be in danger of dropping out in a few years after repeating the same grade several times.  Originally I had planned to work with the second and third grades, but after evaluating them all and becoming overwhelmed by the number of students in need, we decided to concentrate just on third grade, as it seems more urgent. 

This program isn’t coming out of nowhere, and I’m not the only one doing it either.  A few weeks ago I collaborated with three of my fellow literacy volunteers to hold a joint training in San Juan with people from our communities to train them on teaching methods and games to use with kids (flashcards, bingo, stories, play dough, memory games, etc.).  The program is called Todos Leen (Everyone Reads), titled by my friend Keeton, who started a similar reading program last September.  We’re making this up as we go along… The kids love it, my facilitators are enthusiastic, the teachers appreciate it, and I feel like it is a completely worthwhile and potentially successful project.  So far so good!  Hopefully we will expand to work with more students, hold a summer reading program, and teacher training in the fall.  

Wednesday, February 29, 2012

Chicas Brillantes


I always loved going to overnight camp as a kid.  For a few summers, my friend Christina and I went to Camp Matollionequay in New Jersey.  We played sports and did activities, swam, sang lots of songs, were really silly… the normal camp thing.  It was only a week, which we spent in a rickety wooden cabin with six other girls and a counselor, communal bunk living, but that week was enough to make us a little more independent, a little freer.  And it was a lot of fun. 

Last weekend I took two of my thirteen year-old friends with me to the Chicas Brillantes regional southern conference.  It was camp, pretty much.  We spent three days at a beautiful retreat center about two hours away from where I live, with a few cabins, a pool, and sixty other girls and Peace Corps volunteers.  My girls wanted to stay forever.  The purpose of the conference, and Chicas Brillantes (basically “Glowing Girls”) in general, is to empower teenage girls through activities concerning self-esteem, gender and sexuality, health, sports, games, community work, and whatever else we volunteers can think of.  And, of course, lots of singing and being silly too. 

By the end of day two, our forty girls had turned into some sort of sorority, chanting the words to Chuli Chuli, a song they particularly liked, and calling themselves the Chuli Chulis.  Not only was this funny (although I never want to sing Chuli Chuli again), but it was also kind of great to watch them making friends with girls from different communities, of different ages and varying backgrounds.  I know that my girls do not have a single friend of Haitian descent here in Tabara, so for them to become friends with girls from the bateyes is a really big thing.  It was awesome to be able to give them the opportunity to get out of Tabara for a weekend and do something so cool.  Not a common occurrence for your average Dominican.  I think they learned a lot.

And best of all, I get to take some girls to Peace Corps’ Camp GLOW (Girls Leading Our World) this summer, which will be a lot like this conference except for a week instead of just the weekend.  Who ever thought I would be an overnight camp counselor for Dominican girls?  Hilarious.   

In some ways, living in my town is a lot like camping.  I wash with buckets; I live with my doors and windows open… basically I live outside.  I don’t cook over an open fire, but plenty of other people do.  I can identify every voice passing outside my door – half of the time I feel like my neighbors live in my house with me.  Last night my girls came over, calling out “Chuli” to identify themselves in the dark at my door (there was no electricity) and asked when we can go back to camp.  We can’t go back to camp any time soon, but we are forming a Chicas Brillantes group so that they can share what they learned with some of their peers here in Tabara.  I remember coming home from Camp Matollionequay and singing camp songs for weeks afterwards.  I’m sure their first order of business will be to teach their friends Chuli Chuli…




Sunday, February 5, 2012

A day in the life…


Some days are just kind of crazy.  I think this one is worth recounting:

I woke up around 7:30 AM, with absolutely no plans for the day.  It was a holiday for some unknown reason (any excuse for a party really), so there was no school or work, and I’m between projects.  My greatest achievements probably would have included trying to use the Internet (if I could find it working anywhere, which is unlikely), cooking something, and hanging out with my neighbors.

But around 8:30 AM, the priest called me.  I couldn’t understand a word he said, maybe because my phone is awful, or maybe because he talks like a crazy person when he’s excited.  He only lives around the corner, so I told him I’d come to his house and we could talk there.  Upon arrival, I was given the expected sugarcoffee, and then was unexpectedly kidnapped and taken on a joyride to three neighboring communities, the purpose of which was unclear.  I was glad that I had brushed my teeth before leaving my house for what I thought would be a two-minute conversation and turned into a four-hour adventure, though I wished that I had put on sunscreen and changed out of the tank-top I slept in last night. 

We arrived to the first community, stopping the truck every few feet to greet someone, the priest either asking why they weren’t in church last week or calling them terms of endearment and blowing them kisses.  We picked up a muchacho who apparently works with the church, and went searching for some key.  It was a very slow ride – we couldn’t make it fifty feet without stopping to chat with someone.  We never achieved whatever it was we were trying to do, but left the community with three extra people in the back of the truck.

Then we drove out to the highway, went a ways down the road, and turned onto a rough dirt road between a bunch of dirt mounds with absolutely nothing else around.  Not a community.  Just dirt.  We waited a minute.  A man appeared from behind a dirt pile.  (Well-dressed, not dirty.)  He got in the truck and we left the dirt mound area, went back to the highway, drove a little further, entered another community, and promptly stopped for empanadas.  I wasn’t hungry, but the five men I was with each ate two.  After their snack, we drove to someone’s house, paused while one of the guys went searching for someone and talked for a while about building materials, costs, construction, whathaveyou.  He came back with grape sodas for everyone and we left that community and drove back to the dirt piles.  When we got there, the man took out a manila envelope and filled it with dirt from one of the piles, gave it to the priest, and we left him there amongst his piles and drove back towards Tabara. 

Sidenote:  This whole time, the truck is blasting merengue and salsa music, and everyone is joking around and yelling random things at each other and at people on the street outside.  Not bad things, just… campo.  Example: “Mi amor, guardame un chin de habichuela!”  My love, save me some beans!  Also, the priest is tailgating and passing cars and motorcycles so close that I’m pressing my right foot hard into an imaginary break and clenching my fists.

As it turns out, the purpose of the entire morning was to fill an envelope with dirt and write a letter to an American priest in Wisconsin asking for two generator batteries for the parish.  (That’s what we did when we got back to Tabara.)  I’m still not sure why I was necessary for the trip, except that the priest really seems to enjoy my company.  All in all, it was a good morning actually – I was extremely amused the whole time, and we ate some yummy spaghetti when we got back. 

Later, I went up to my host family’s house to hang out with my sister.  What started with the two of us casually chatting on the couch quickly became soap opera material, with a revolving cast of characters in ridiculous situations.  Between one cousin whining about money and make-up, another cousin making us laugh so hard we almost fell off the couch as she talked about men, cabañas, and dirty Dominican expressions, the relatively rich grandmother in-law yelling about how she’s been denied water filters from the church (the filters were given to families who can’t afford the big jugs of water sold at colmados), and the three year old tiguera being a tiguera, it was a full house.  A neighbor also told us of her current troubles with an unwanted guest: an older Spanish man that she met in the capital came to visit her and never left.  Um…what?  He was never invited, and she doesn’t want him there, but he has now been living in her house for four months.  Also, he kicked her daughter.  My response: “WHAT, ARE YOU KIDDING ME?  Throw him out for God’s sake!”  That story is unresolved for now.

Finally, there was some big baseball game on at night, and all my neighbors sat outside one guy’s house watching it through the windows, perched on a truck bed or in plastic chairs on the street.  I sat in the truck with them for a while before I decided that I’ve never cared about baseball, and just because I’m in baseball land doesn’t mean I have to start now.  My little neighbors came over for story time instead, with the background of men directly outside my door screaming at a little TV through a window across the street, some of them peering in every so often to hear the story. 

Quite a day.